Highlights

Europe without castles isn’t Europe at all, at least in American eyes, so visiting the Czech Republic should bring joy to the hearts of visitors with its nearly 180 castles, chateaux and castle ruins that are open to the general public. Royal Karlstejn Castle, in the valley of the Berounka River, is perhaps the most famous castle outside Prague.

Events

In 2006, Prague celebrates the 250th anniversary of the birth of Mozart (in nearby Salzburg), with a splendid tribute consisting of more than 150 concerts, opera performances, exhibitions, movies and music festivals. Sixteen different Czech cultural institutions are talking part. It was in Prague that Mozart stayed frequently with his friends, the Dussek family, at their villa, which is now the Mozart Museum. And here in the Theater of Estates (then the Nostitz Theater), the world premiers of Don Giovanni, La Clemenza di Tito, and the Prague Symphony were all held. More details at www.mozartprague2006.com.

On the first weekend of May, Karlovy Vary sees the Blessing of the Waters, and for several weeks starting May 12 the Prague Spring Music Festival holds sway. On the third weekend in June, Cesky Krumlov holds the Festival of the Five-Petaled Rose, and in July it’s time for the International Film Festival in Karlovy Vary. Marianske Lazne holds its annual Chopin Festival in late August. Prague concentrates on music in September with its Autumn Music Festival and in October with its Mozart in Prague Festival, in 2006 to be run concurrently with the Mozart 2006 events.Additional events are posted at www.czechtourism.com/index.php?show=003005039&lang=3.

Outdoors

For nearly 120 years, the Czech Tourists Club has taken care of a huge system of marked hiking and other tourist trails, measuring almost the length of the equator’s trip around the world. The most renowned areas in the country are the Bohemian Paradise (Cesky raj) and the Czech Switzerland (Ceske Svycarsko). In Cesky raj, be sure to see the Trosky ruins, consisting of the remains of a medieval castle sitting on two cone-shaped volcanic rocks. In the Ceske Svycarsko area, check out what is said to be Europe’s largest rock bridge (Pravcice Gate), the region’s most famous natural monument.

Cuisine

Once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Czech nation was heavily influenced by the cuisines of Austria, and to some extent, Hungary and Germany. So you will find elements of dishes from those countries everywhere. But you could sum up traditional Czech cooking in a few words: pork, potatoes, dumplings and cabbage. To drink: beer.

Also popular are duck, goose and game. Try a traditional potato pancake called bramborak, or a meal of roast pork with cabbage and dumplings, washed down with pilsner beer. For dessert, apple strudel and various kinds of bundt cakes (babovka) are traditional, as are boiled fruit dumplings (with cherries, plums, apricots).

If you are in Moravia, in the eastern part of the country, you ask for wine instead of beer to accompany your meals, as this is a land of good white wines, and a few reds as well.

Shopping

Among highly valued Czech products is glass, with crystal being the most sought-after. Check out Moser Glass, with two outlets in Prague, the smaller with factory seconds. Another good buy is garnets, which you should get from Granat Turnov, unless you are looking for antiques in other stores. Look also for modernist design in art, perhaps starting with the Kubista shop in the House at the Black Madonna on Celetna Street, home of the Cubism Museum.

Several shopping districts await you in Prague, including the "Zlaty Kriz" area around Wenceslas Square-Na Prikope Street-Mustek-Narodni. For antiques, artworks, jewelry, and glass, the greatest concentration of shops is in the Old Town area.

If you buy more than Kc 2,000 worth (about US $80) of items from a single retailer, you can get your VAT (Value Added Tax) returned. See www.globalrefund.cz for more on this.

Accommodations

You’ll find all sorts of lodgings in the Czech Republic, ranging from luxury hotels to pensions, B&Bs and even apartments, not to mention youth hostels and camping out. High season is from early April through the end of October, during which you should be sure to get reservations in Prague in advance of your trip. Two good hotel locators are Czech Travel Guide at www.ctg.cz; for Prague only, www.prague-info.cz.

In Prague, aim for centrally located hotels in the city’s first district, Praha 1. Next choice would be Praha 2; be sure to ask how far the nearest metro (subway) stop is.

Major Destinations

Prague

Over one million inhabitants say Prague is the best, and you are likely to agree with them when you visit. Many writers around the world think Prague is one of the most beautiful capitals of all, its architecture alone inspiring to any sensitive viewer. Among its nicknames are Golden Prague, the City of a Hundred Spires, the Mother of Cities - all will spring to mind when first you see this place.

Among highlights is the town center, with architecture ranging from the Gothic through Art Nouveau to Modernist. Prague Castle, the symbol of Czech statehood, was home to the kings of Bohemia, and is now the seat of Czech. Within the complex, two absolute must-sees are the Cathedral of St. Vitus (Gothic), the nation’s most important church, and the Old Royal Palace. There are spectacular views of the city from the gardens running along the Castle’s southern walls. Once you have taken your pictures, you can walk down the Royal Route, toward the Lesser Quarter. (Mala Strana.)

This area is dotted with the former palaces of the nobility and festooned with twisting lanes. Check out the St. Nicholas Church here, and note its amazing Baroque forms. Next, cross the fantastic Charles Bridge (14th century) to the Old Town, with the square features the Town Hall and its gorgeous clock. Not far from the imposing houses surrounding the square is the Josefov quarter, the former Jewish ghetto. All that remains of the ghetto are six synagogues and an ancient cemetery. Of the six houses of worship, the Old-New Synagogue is the oldest synagogue in the world.

The New Town is where you go for shopping and entertainment. Outside the city, consider visiting one of the nearby castles - Karlstejn, Krivoklat, Konopiste or Nelahozeves - or the historic town of Kutna Hora, especially the latter’s Church of St. Barbora (Gothic).

Cesky Krumlov

Second only to Prague as a tourist destination, Cesky Krumlov retains its ancient image, dating back to the Middle Ages. The castle from that period dominates the town, whose lanes are lined with carefully restored houses of burghers, often now home to cozy restaurants and smart shops. Try to be here when the International Music Festival takes place, and don’t miss a walk along the river that runs prettily through the city. Cesky Krumlov itself is on the UNESCO list of World Cultural Heritage places, as is the nearby village of Holasovice. Not far from Cesky Krumlov are three other towns of interest, Ceske Budejovice, Jindrichuv Hradec and Trebon, as well as the Hluboka nad Vltavou Chateau (neo-Gothic), Rozmberk Castle and the monasteries in Vyssi Brod and Zlata Koruna.

Karlovy Vary

Three famous spas share the limelight in West Bohemia - Karlovy Vary, Marianske Lazne and Frantiskovy Lazne, a few dozen miles from one another. Though hot springs have soothed jangled nerves and tired bodies since the Middle Ages, their heyday was in the 1800s, when most of the elegant buildings you see were built. Famous composers, writers and politicians came for the waters, including Goethe, Beethoven and Mark Twain, to mention only three.

One of Europe’s most prestigious film festivals is held in Karlovy Vary in early July every year. There is plenty to see and do in any of the three towns even if you don’t use the baths. Don’t overlook the historic wooden Market Colonnade.

Olomouc

The center of Moravia, Olomouc is awash in Baroque architecture, attested to first of all by the Holy Trinity Column in its main square. This is the largest of such plague or Marian columns in Central Europe, and is on the UNESCO list of historic monuments. Thanks to its university, Olomouc sees crowds of youngsters on the streets at all times, especially during festivals. Highlights of architecture here include the Church of St. Wenceslas (neo-Gothic), the Premyslid Palace (Romanesque), the Archbishop’s Palace and the Church of St. Maurice (fortified).

The largest floral event in the country is the Flora Flower Exhibition, held every summer. Nearby destinations include the town of UNESCO-listed town of Kromeriz with its chateau gardens, photogenic Bouzov Castle, and the Renaissance town of Litomysl.

Getting There

Czech Airlines, the national carrier, and Delta has nonstop flights from New York’s JFK to Prague. There are dozens of other airlines, mostly European but some American, that have one-stop connections between the USA and Prague, as well.