Magnificent Germany
By Robert Haru Fisher
Germany is not only the largest country in Central Europe, but is blessed with an abundance of marvelous places to visit. In addition to its famed castles and cities, there are countless small towns and villages waiting to be visited, and hundreds of opportunities for outdoor activities. Add to this a glorious heritage of art, music and food, and you have a perfect recipe for guaranteed enjoyment on the spot. There are, for instance, 150 thematic routes you can travel between the Alps and the Baltic, such as the Castle Road, Romantic Road, Wine Road, Alpine Road and many more.
With 31 sites that UNESCO has placed under the protection of international conventions, it's hard to single out just a few highlights or must-see's in Germany. (Here is one example: An entire old town, that inside modern Lubeck, has been declared part of the World Cutltural Heritage, for the first time in northern Europe.) But you should come prepared for a menu of wonders, fit for every kind of taste in this sprawling country. Consider just two examples, the splendid crankiness of Oktoberfest and the glorious strains of music at Bayreuth. And there's always something new, as in the Mercedes-Benz World museum opening on May 19, 2006.
Many Americans have roots in Germany (one in six, it is said), the most prominent of immigrants, perhaps, being Albert Einstein (Ulm), Levi Strauss (Buttenheim), Neil Armstrong (Landbergen), and Henry Kissinger, Billy Joel and Sandra Bullock (the latter three all from Furth). There is a new Emigrants Museum in Bremerhaven (2005), in which you can dial up your family's roots if you feel like it.
Events
In much of Europe, the 250th anniversary of Mozart's birth heads the list of events, and Germany is no exception. Among cities holding special concerts and events in 2006 are Augsburg, Leipzig, Munich and Wuerzburg. In Augsburg alone, there will be the German Mozart Festival in May and the International Leopold Mozart Violin Competition in May (Leopold was Wolfgang's father). See Website
www.mozartstadt.de.
The 2006 World Cup (for soccer) will take place from June 9 through July 9, with festivals, cultural agendas, and more in the 12 host cities. And Dresden is celebrating its 800th anniversary.
Traditional festivals include Carnival in February in Cologne, Mainz and the Black Forest, and Easter parades in March. Duesseldorf's annual jazz festival takes place from June 2 to 4 (www.duesseldorf-tourism.de) and Hamburg has its Harbor Festival in May (www.hamburg-tourism.de). Berlin's Carnival of Cultures features dancers, singers and musicians from 80 countries around the world from June 2 to 5 (www.karneval-berlin.de). For more on events in Germany, go to the events page at www.cometogermany.com.
Christmas Markets
Although nearly 150 cities have their own markets, the most famous are those in Nurnberg (since 1628), Frankfurt (for nearly 600 years), Lubeck (1648) and Dresden (1434). In Dresden, you must sample the traditional Hefestriezel, a cake. In Frankfurt, sample the hot apple wine, and in Nurnberg, take a ride in an old horse-drawn mail coach. In Lubeck, don't overlook the Marzipan Bazaar.
Outdoors
Bavaria is famous for its winter sports facilities, but the same areas are excellent venues for summer hiking and other outdoor activities. The Black Forest is replete with hiking trails. In other spots, you can bike along special trails alongside the Danube, for instance, or the Rhine.
Health
If you like spas, you must visit one of Germany's best, whether it be Baden-Baden, Wiesbaden or Bad Homburg, to name only three.
Lodging
Outstanding hotels in every category from five-star and deluxe to one-star and cozy comforts can be found in every corner of the country, particularly in major towns and cities. Look for more information at
www.cometogermany.com.
Dining Out
Every German region has its own specialties, too many to mention here, but you should always be on the lookout for some of these: noodles (such as schupfnudeln) in Swabia, cheese (e.g. handkas) in Hesse, asparagus in Baden, ham in the Black Forest, and dumplings everywhere, especially in the west. And don't forget the sausages, whether they be bratwurst, mettwurst (from Braunschweig), liver sausage (from Upper Hesse), curry sausages from Berlin, white ones from Munich, or Frankfurters (from guess where?). Do not forget sausages from Nurnberg, Lower Saxony, or those from Holstein, Westphalia or the Black Forest.
Over 300 types of bread are baked in Germany they say, and you can wash down your meals with one of the thousands of different beers brewed here. Among the highlights of beer are those from Cologne (kolsch), Duesseldorf (alt), Thuringia (black beer) or Bavaria ("white" beer).
Among wine growing regions in Germany are the Rhine, Moselle, Franconia, Baden and Saxony-Anhalt. Riesling and Muller-Thurgau top the white wines here, and Spatburgunder and Dornfelder the red.
Major Destinations
Berlin
Restored to its role as capital of unified Germany, Berlin is also rapidly becoming the hottest city in Europe, thanks to its magnificent cultural opportunities and an open attitude towards visitors. There are many Berlins, including the classic capital city, the volatile city of experimenting in the arts and lifestyle, the trendy Berlin as in the eastern sectors, the culinary Berlin, arty Berlin, avant-garde Berlin, and more. Take your pick.
A few highlights of Central Berlin (Mitte) include Museum Island, with its splendid complex of buildings housing magnificent art: The Pergamon Museum, with its Altar, dating from 180 B.C.; The National Gallery, with mostly German artists of the 19th and 20th centuries; and the Old Museum (Altes Museum), with ancient Greek treasures.
Of interest to students of history are the Berlin Wall Memorial Site and the German Historical Museum, with a new wing designed by I. M. Pei. If you have time, wander the streets of the Nikolai Quarter, the city's oldest neighborhood, with its oldest building, St. Nicholas' Church, and plenty of cafés, shops and tiny squares.
In Western Berlin, highlights include these two: the Reichstag, where you can look down on the legislature in session from inside the new glass dome atop the building; and the Culture Forum, which comprises at least three museums—the New National Gallery, the Painting Gallery (older masterpieces) and the Museum of Decorative Arts.
Also in the west are the Dahlem Museums, the Egyptian Museum, and the Schloss Charlottenburg (17th century). Students of history should not miss the Brandenburg Gate, the Checkpoint Charlie Museum and the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, the latter a symbol of the former West Berlin.
Outside Berlin, if you have time, visit Sans Souci Palace, the marvelous home of Frederick the Great, in Potsdam, a large portion of which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Munich
Although the unofficial capital of Bavaria, Munich is also home to an expansive attitude that calls for a more relaxed way of life than is reputed to more northern climes in Germany. Among the must-see places here are the Residenz, the Frauenkirche and Schloss Nymphenburg. If possible, you should attend the opera at the beautiful Staatsoper, listen to a concert by one of Munich's famous orchestras, and visit at least one of the city's memorable museums, such as the Pinakotheken or the Glyptothek.
Most important, perhaps, of the museums is the Deutsche Museum, the biggest scientific-technological museum in the world, they say, with an area of more than 50,000 square meters (about 538,200 sq. ft.). When you get thirsty, visit the famous and infamous Hofbrauhaus or another beer hall. If you love parks, the English Garden is unique, with a Chinese Tower no less.
If you're lucky, you might be here during the fantastic Oktoberfest, an epiphany of food and drink, or at Fasching, the carnival time, with hundreds of dances indoors and out.
With time to spare, you might want to visit a nearby spot, such as the Herrenchiemsee Palace of mad King Ludwig II, which can really be fun.
Romantic Road
One of Germany's most popular trips is that down the Romantic Road, which runs from Fussen in the south to Wuerzburg in the north. Along the 350-kilometer route (about 217 miles), highlights include Augsburg, Dinkelsbuhl, Rothenburg (check out the altar in the church of St. Jakob) and more, with at least one spot (the Wieskirche in Steingaden) being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Near Fussen are two outstanding castles, that of Neuschwanstein (from which the Disney castles are copied) and Hohenschwangau. Further information on Fussen at
www.fuessen.de.
Castle Road
This route will take you to some places visited by Mark Twain more than a century ago, and it has the advantage of being less traveled than the more famous Romantic Road, so you can enjoy it almost by yourself. You can see the palaces of Palatinate princes in Mannheim, Heidelberg or Schwetzingen, or enjoy old towns like Mosbach or Bad Wimpfen. Other great cities and towns on the route include Heilbronn, Nuremberg, Rothenburg ob Tauber, and Bayreuth. The route is nearly 800 km. long (about 500 miles).
Black Forest
Baden Baden is the cultural heart of the forest, a place to relax and take the waters, perhaps, or just to visit the beautiful casino and opera house. On a different level, look for the world's biggest cuckoo clocks (which originated here, probably) in Triberg. Among the marvelous natural delights in the Black Forest are several manmade marvels, such as Germany's oldest inn, Zum Roten Baren, in Freiburg, dating back at least to 1327. In Freiburg also, be sure not to miss the Liebfrauen Kirche, dating back to 1200.
The region between Pforzheim and Basle has the most Michelin stars in all of Germany, so you can eat well here. Look for traditional products such as ham, cherry cake and schnapps, fresh trout and spring asparagus.
Heidelberg
Although Heidelberg is on the Castle Road, it is surely worth a visit on its own. If Mark Twain liked it (and note that Heidel means "huckleberry"), why not us? Highlights here include the Old Bridge (1786), the magnificent Castle (15th century), and the Church of the Holy Ghost. If you have time, try to visit a vineyard on the opposite slopes of the valley, and have lunch there, too, while looking over the city.
The Rhine
The Upper Middle Rhine Valley (between Bingen and Koblenz) is another UNESCO World Heritage Site, and for good reason. If nothing else, you can enjoy seeing 21 castles or castle ruins along this 65-kilometer stretch (about 40 miles). A highlight of the valley is Rudesheim, where you can drink young white wine in late October or visit a life-size Christmas crèche in December.
Dresden
To celebrate its 800th anniversary in 2006, Dresden has spent a long time preparing. Most importantly, the city just re-opened its famous and beautiful Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), destroyed during World War II and restored carefully ever since. Take in also the Zwinger Palace, with its magnificent works of art (most notably, the Sistine Madonna by Raphael), and visit the Residenz, too. Time spent at the opera here would be well worth the effort.
Outside Dresden is "the Saxon Switzerland," excellent for rock climbing, but best is a paddleboat cruise on the Elbe, the valley of which is also on the UNESCO World Heritage list, especially to three of its castles at Eckberg, Albrechstsberg and Villa Stockhausen.
Getting There
Eleven airlines fly directly from the USA to Germany, including Lufthansa, Condor, LTU, American, Continental, Delta, Northwest, United and US Airways.
Dozens of tour operators have offerings to Germany, including city
packages, escorted tours, river cruises and special interest trips.
You can find them online and through the German National Tourist
Office, phone 800/637-1171 or on the web at
www.cometogermany.com.
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