Unique Hungary
By Robert Haru Fisher
If one word could sum up Hungary, it might be "unique," for there is nothing like it elsewhere. Blessed with fertile land, its people exhibit a charming blend of East and West, Hungary is an amalgam of cultures dating back before the Roman Empire, including 150 years of Turkish rule through the richness of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance to a lively present. Four different cities have been capitals of the country, and all have contributed to a history that has left its mark for contemporary travelers to see. And everything is up to date here, too. At the crossroads of Europe, Hungary has finally found its proper match on the continent, becoming a full fledged member of the European Union in 2004.
Among the places you should select as targets are eight that are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the small medieval village of Holloko, a thousand-year-old monastery at Pannonhalma (still in use today), and an ancient cemetery with painted vaults in Pecs. Best of all, another World Heritage Site is the Tokaj wine region, whose traditions have been preserved for over a thousand years. Say egesszegere ("to your health!"). Add to this some of the best cuisine and wines in Europe, and you have a never-ending recipe for pleasures any visitor can enjoy.
Cultural Highlights
Another word to define Hungary might be "culture," as the nation abounds with good music and fine arts. This is the land not only of Bartok and Zoltan Kodaly, but of Liszt, Dohnanyi and Franz Lehar. (And Mozart and Haydn composed music for the archbishops of Gyor, as well.) You can enjoy operettas almost nightly in season, with such old favorites as The Merry Widow or the Czardas Queen packing them in. Try to attend at least one performance of opera or ballet at the splendiferous State Opera House, restored a while back to its original brilliance.
If you like going for Baroque, check out the town centers of Veszprem ("The Town of Queens"), Gyor, Vac and Eger, all boasting fine churches, town halls and shops built in that period. Lovers of Art Nouveau should enjoy Budapest, which abounds in the Hungarian version of that school of architecture, decoration and design. Medieval structures can still be seen in villages and towns across the country, for that matter.
Events
The 125th anniversary of the birth of Bela Bartok takes place in 2006, with concerts, lectures and seminars, as well as choral and piano competitions. The celebration begins on March 24 with a gala concert of the National Philharmonic Orchestra at the Budapest Palace of Arts. For more information, visit
www.hungary.com or
www.festivalcity.hu.
Also in Budapest, the museum of Fine Arts marks its 100th anniversary by commemorating 500 Years of Graphic Art, as well as exhibitions on Van Gogh, Rembrandt and several Spanish artists. Check out
www.szepmuveszeti.hu.
Again on the music scene, consider attending the world famous two-week Budapest Spring Festival in March, now extended to 10 other cities in the country. There are also Concerts (and tours) in Parliament from January through May on one Friday each month, the Balaton Festival in May, the Miskolc Opera Festival in June, the Budapest Summer Music Festival in July, the Budapest Opera & Ballet Festival in August, the Debrecen Floral Carnaval in August, the Open-Air Theatre Festival in Szeged, the Zemplen Art Festival in Sarospatak and the Summer Jewish Festival, the latter in several towns and cities.
Outdoors
An ideal hike can be had along the northern shores of Lake Balaton, where you can refresh yourself by tasting wines at vineyards along the route, especially near Szentgyorgy (St. George) Hill. Rare birds and plants are the specialty of the Northern Balaton National Park, not far from the lake.
Hungary has over 11,000 kilometers (about 6,831 miles) of marked bicycle trails, good also for hikers. There are high quality horse ranches scattered around the map, too. Fishing and water sports can be had along rivers and lakes, especially on Balaton. You can play golf at 13 different courses, two of which are in Budapest.
Three of Hungary's eight World Heritage Sites are natural, including the Aggtelek Karst (with the most extensive stalactite cave system in Central Europe), the grassy plain of Hortobagy and Lake Ferto, the latter the westernmost of the Eurasian steppe lake and also Europe's largest saltwater lake. Hungary has ten national parks, with a total conservation area of 1.3 million acres, so there is plenty of room for enjoying nature's benefits.
Health
Of the 1300 natural hot springs that Hungary boasts, 80 are in Budapest alone, with thermal baths, spas, swimming pools and spa hotels right next to each there and in another 70 towns and villages across the country. You can come for a "cure," or just to relax and be pampered and spoiled. One nice spot is Heviz, with its own thermal lake of volcanic origin (near Balaton), open all year. Nearby Balatonfured is perhaps the country's most famous spa, and it's right on the lake, with a fountain in the town square bubbling up (free) mineral waters.
Cuisine
Hungary is the home of goulash, yes, and many believe that food with paprika in it cannot be anything but good. You'll find contests for fisherman's soup cooking and sausage filling, and festivals for onions and paprika, melons and cherries. Among delicacies are the ubiquitous veal paprikash, or less common dishes such as trout in cream sauce, goose liver or fogas (fish from Lake Balaton). Wine is produced in 22 different regions, Tokaj being the most famous. On top of all this bounty, there is feasting for the ear as well, since many restaurants employ Gypsy bands, so enjoy!
Shopping
Typical Hungarian souvenirs include handmade and painted porcelains, crystals, laces, woven cloth, embroidery, and glazed pottery. You can take home any of many varieties of red pepper paprika, too. The popular folk art patterns from the town of Kalocsa appear on clothing here and in linen ware, and even on the walls of rooms. You can buy modern versions to take home. If you visit Herend, be sure to check out the porcelain at the factory there.
In the pedestrian-only Vaci utca center of Pest, many boutiques have tax free schemes for tourists, meaning you can get a refund on your Value Added Taxes if you buy enough stuff. You will use the Hungarian forint for currency until the year 2010, when the country will switch over to the Euro.
Accommodations
Hungary is replete with fine lodgings, being served by at least nine locally-based chains and many independent establishments. Budapest alone has eleven 5-star hotels, including the Andrassy, the Corinthian (2), Four Seasons, Hilton (2), InterContinental, Kempinski, Marriott, Meridien, and Sofitel. There are also 20 hotels in the four-star category, and eight boasting 3 stars, in addition to many in more modest groupings.
Outside Budapest, there are dozens of excellent hotels in the five-, four- and three-star categories, in towns and areas such as around Lake Balaton, in the Tokaj region, and in these places: Buk, Debrecen, Eger, Gyor, Heviz, Pecs, Sopron and Szeged. Of course, there are countless establishments in lower ranking lists as well.
Some lodgings offer discounts if you carry a Hungarian Tourism Card and coupons. The card is good for 13 months and is transferable, with 50% discount on all lines of the two Hungarian rail companies on up to 7 trips; on all interurban bus lines up to 6 trips; on Lake Balaton boats and on toll motorways for two adults. It also works at some restaurants, for up to 4 trips with two Budapest taxi companies, when renting passenger cars and on some museum admissions. The cost is 7935 Forints, about $35. Get more information on this from Hotelinfo, email
info@hotelinfo.hu, website
www.hotelinfo.hu.
Major Destinations
Budapest
"The Queen of the Danube" takes in two cities, Buda in the hills and Pest on the plain, the Danube in between, making it one of the most beautiful capitals in the world. Over two million inhabitants enjoy this scene, with a wealth of cultural and sporting activities available round the year. If you do nothing else here, enjoy a meal in a traditional café, attend a musical event in the evening, visit a museum or castle in the afternoon, take in a little something at a pastry shop, and jog along the river in the morning.
An entire day can be spent taking in the Hungarian Art Nouveau architecture. In fact, the vista here along the Danube is also a World Heritage Site, ranging from the Citadel atop Gellert Hill and the glorious Buda Castle to the entire riverfront below.
Highlights include the massive Parliament Building, a fantasy which many believe resembles London's Palace of Westminster (but more fun), the Royal Palace Museum (also known as Buda Castle), the Fisherman's Bastion (for the splendid view), and the Matthias Church (13th century, reconstructed in the 19th).
Among many museums, the best is the Hungarian National Museum (1837). Visitors may also admire the Great Synagogue, Europe's largest, dating back to 1844. After terrible damage done by Nazis, it was restored beautifully, helped by donors such as actor Tony Curtis, himself of Hungarian origin. History-lovers will like St. Stephen's Basilica, built in the 19th century to honor the first king of Hungary, who was also the nation's patron saint, and Heroes' Square, the latter commemorating the seven Magyar founders of the nation. For more information on this capital city, go to
www.budapestinfo.hu.
A pleasant excursion from Budapest can be made to Szentendre (St. Andrew), which boasts not only a quasi-Mediterranean atmosphere but a bustling artists' colony.
Lake Balaton
This is where outdoor lovers can flex their muscles, at the largest fresh-water lake in Central Europe. The south shore is best for families with kids because of its gently sloping shallow water beaches, the north best for wine lovers looking for tastings in the vineyards.
Szeged
With 2100 hours of sunshine per year, Szeged calls itself "the Sunny City." It should also, perhaps, be called the City of Healthy Spices, as it was here that Nobel-prize laureate Albert Szent-Gyorgi first isolated pure vitamin C from, what else?, paprika. Among the important must-see sites here are the Bishop's Palace on Dome Square, the Divinity School, and the Bishops' Cathedral. This square is where you can see the Outdoor Festival each summer. Check out the musical clock at noon each day for its revolving figures. Food specialties here, in addition to paprika, include fish soup and Pick salami.
Debrecen
The second largest city in Hungary, Debrecen is often called "the Calvinist Rome" because of the role it played in the Reformation (16th century). The Great Church here is the symbol of the city, and the largest Calvinist church in the country. Nearby buildings of interest are the Calvinist College (c. 1825) and the country's oldest working hotel, the Arnybika.
The Other Royal Towns
In addition to Buda, three towns have been capitals of Hungary, and all still have visible remnants of medieval architecture. In Esztergom, visit the Museum of Christian Art, with many early Hungarian paintings, and the Basilica. In Visegrad, check out the 14th-century fortress atop the hill. In Szekesfehervar (the first capital, dating back to 920), be sure to visit the Franciscan church, the Town Hall and its square, the Bishop's Palace and the Cistercian Church monastery.
Getting There
Malev, the national airline, has direct flights from North America, and many other companies offer flights to Budapest through major European airports in such places as London, Paris and Frankfurt, to mention only three.
There are at least 14 hotel representatives in the USA specializing in Hungarian places to stay. And finally, there are dozens of tour operators who have packages for everything from golf outings to exploration of "Czardas and Paprikas," as one company puts it.
For information on all the above, see
www.gotohungary.com.
The Tourinform Hotline can be reached by dialing 011 36 6055 0044 from the USA. It has information on hotels, restaurants, sightseeing tours and events. You can also check it out at
hungary@tourinform.hu or at
www.tourinform.hu or
www.hungary.com.
Much more information is also available from the Hungarian National Tourist Office, 350 Fifth Avenue (7107), New York NY 10118, phone 212/695-1221, email
info@gotohungary.com, website
www.gotohungary.com. |
|
|
|
|
