Poland Up to Date:
Say "Hello" to the New Europe
By Robert Haru Fisher
Visiting Europe used to mean looking in on the "Old World," but that's all changed now. With the emergence of Central and Eastern Europe as energetic travel destinations in the past few years, touring countries such as Poland can be an insight on modern attitudes and new ways of looking at life itself. Warsaw and several other major cities here are packed with marvelous displays of modern art, new forms of music, theater and dance. Young travelers, especially, will find plenty to keep them occupied, while older and more familiar cultural aspects of the country continue to charm visitors of every interest.

Chopin & More
Poland is awash in cultural advantages, drawing on its historical figures such as Frederic Chopin, Marie Sklodowska-Curie, Nicolaus Copernicus and Henryk Sienkiewicz (author of Quo Vadis). As for more recent men and women who helped shape the modern world, consider Nobel Peace Prize laureate Lech Walesa, who led Poland to regain its independence peacefully in 1989.

As for connections to the traditions of Western Europe, Poland has used the Latin alphabet ever since its conversion to Christianity in 966, so you won't have a problem reading street signs.

If you can manage to visit at the right time, be sure to attend the Chopin International Piano Competition, held every five years (the next one is in the fall of 2010). At any time, you can listen to concerts at Chopin's family home, Zelazowa Wola, and the Warsaw Autumn International Festival of Contemporary Music is held every year in September, as well as a Mozart Festival (from mid June to the end of July). There's also an International Jazz Festival held each October.

As for historical and cultural sites, the UNESCO World Heritage List includes marvels such as these: the magnificent center of Cracow, Warsaw's Old Town, the Teutonic Knights' Castle in Malbork, and, sadly, the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp.

Religious mystery plays are well worth seeing here. Included are Palm Sunday processions and those on Corpus Christi in several locations. The most famous religious site in the country is at Czestochowa, where the Shrine of the Black Madonna celebrates, among other events, victory over invading Swedish forces in the 17th century.

Before World War II, ten percent of Poland's population was Jewish. This heritage is remembered in rebuilt synagogues in Warsaw, Cracow and Tukocin, and dozens of cemeteries.

The Great Outdoors
You can hike in the footsteps of Pope John Paul II if you wish, following the trails he used in his younger days. Perhaps of equal interest is the Trail of the Great Lakes, Europe's longest water route, on which you can sailboat or kayak your way for as long as 100 kilometers (about 75 miles) if you wish. Shorter routes too, such as the lovely Elblag Canal (62 kilometers, about 37 miles), with its seven locks and slipways, are also worth thinking about.

If you are planning a big adventure, you could try Europe's bicycle route R-1, which begins in Calais (France) and runs through Holland, Germany and Poland, all the way to Russia.

Europe's oldest primeval forest, Bialowieska, is on the UNESCO World Heritage List, and is accessible on foot, bicycle, horse-drawn buggies or a narrow-gauge railways. If you are lucky, you may spot one of the bison which live here, or black grouse.

Hiking is good in several of Poland's mountain ranges, whether it be in the Karkonoszes (with its famous Bears Cave), the Tatras (where lively Zakopane is located) or the Bieszczadys (remote, and good for horseback riding).

Cuisine
Pickles on the breakfast buffet table are a sign of a high civilization, I believe, though the meats, cheeses, egg dishes, yogurts and fruits are the main attraction for other hungry visitors. Among traditional Polish dishes you will want to try are borsch, zureek (sour soup with sausage), bigos (cabbage with meat) and pierogi (dumplings stuffed with meat or veggies), not to mention sheep's' milk cheese, gingerbread, poppy seed cake or sauerkraut soup. Don't forget the wyborowa vodka, either, or Lech beer.

Shopping
Amber is one of Poland's most famous products, having been collected here for 2,000 years. Every town, from Warsaw to the smallest village, offers shopping opportunities, but you would do well to look for local handcrafts wherever you go.

Health
Poland has several spas where visitors come to enjoy mineralized water springs and gorgeous scenery. Among these, the leading spot is Duszniki Zdroj, about 1200 feet above sea level, which also has an annual Chopin Festival. Krynica Zdroj, on the other hand, is popular with artists from the theater and opera, so entertainment here is first class as well.

For something completely different, consider the Wieliczka Salt Mine, 300 feet below the surface, which is in effect an underground iodine-rich sanatorium. The mine is on the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites. If you go here, be sure to see the Chapel of the Blessed Kings, sculpted in solid salt rock and featuring chandeliers made of salt crystals.

Night Life
If you enjoy popular music, Warsaw has something for everyone. Some examples include: jazz at Jazz Bistro; disco and house at the Underground Music Café or Ground Zero; club music at Vanilla; reggae at Jadlodajnia Filozoficzna. Popular pubs abound, such as the Irish Pub, Elegancki Bolek and Tiger. Favorite coffee houses include the Café Brama and Coffeeheaven, among many others.

Accommodations
Poland is blessed with hundreds of comfortable places to stay, ranging from the deluxe down to youth hostels or camping grounds.

In Warsaw, there are seven five-star hotels, including: Le Royal Meridien Bristol, the Marriott, the Radisson SAS Centrum, the Rialto, the Sheraton, the Sofitel Victoria, and the Westin. There are also five hotels in the four-star category, 15 in the three-star grouping, and more in two-star or lesser listings. A popular youth hostel is Syrenka, and a modestly priced hotel is Nathan's Villa Hostel, for instance.

In Cracow, there are 17 hotels in the three-star category, namely: Best Western, Classic, Orbis (3 properties), Elektor, Fortuna, Fortuna Bis, Kazimierz, Logos, Maltanski, Novotel, Pod Roza, PTTK Wyspianski, Ruczaj, Warszawski and Wit Stwosz. Affordable accommodation includes the Bling Bling or the Hostele Dizzy Daisy, while Juvenia and Express are good youth hostels.

In Zakopane, first class or luxury hotels (3 or 4 stars) include the Belvedere, the Litwor, the Czarny Potok, the Orbis, the Gromada, or the Mercure. Also, there's a good Youth Hostel, or you can stay at a pension such as the Belmont or Olga.

Major Destinations

Warsaw
The heart and soul of Poland is Warsaw, which is nearly completely rebuilt after 84% of it was destroyed during World War II. Despite its growing pains (and the presence of some Soviet-style holdover buildings), there are hundreds of beautiful areas scattered about the city, especially around Old Town and Market Square. Be sure to walk along the Royal Way, where three noble residences are a feast for the eye. Also not to be missed are the St. John's Cathedral, the Royal Castle, and the Royal Lazienski Park, where you can see Chopin's statue and hear his music. The Chopin Museum is also of interest, with one of his pianos and many intimate objects on display.

Along the Royal Way, be sure to visit the Holy Cross Church, where the heart of Chopin rests in an urn. For an overview of the city, go to the terrace (30th floor) of the Palace of Culture and Science, an ugly Stalin-era gift from the old Soviet Union. The best thing about visiting this building, locals say, is that you can see all of Warsaw except the palace itself.

Near Warsaw is Chopin's birthplace, Zelazowa Wola, where the manor/museum houses family portraits, among other items. Recitals of the composer's music are performed here throughout the summer. Also near the capital is the small village of Czerwinsk, with a Romanesque church (1150), modernized in later years with Gothic, renaissance and baroque styles. Great views of the Vistula and the Kampinos Forest, too.

A bit farther west of Warsaw is the charming town of Plock, where there are several sights worth spending a day to see. The pride of this 1,000-year-old place is a Romanesque Cathedral of Our Lady (12th century), with later Gothic and renaissance additions. But of equal interest, I think, is the Art Nouveau exhibit in the castle museum. Other historical sites include convents, toll gates, churches and granaries, as well as an ancient school, still in operation.

Cracow
Second only to Warsaw in sightseeing importance is Cracow, whose Main Market Square is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Look out for and listen to the hourly bugle call rendered from atop the St. Mary's Church here. There's a Gallery of 19th Century Polish Painting on the top floor of the Cloth Hall, the oldest commercial center in Poland, where you can also buy souvenirs and folk art. Have tea or a drink at one of the cafes surrounding the square.

Lording itself over the town is Wawel Hill, with a renaissance period Royal Castle, housing a collection of splendid art objects. Polish kings were crowned and buried at the nearby Wawel Cathedral. Not far away is Kazimeirz, once the largest Jewish community in Europe. Old traditions are commemorated here, especially with an annual Jewish Culture Festival, featuring artists from around the globe.

Look out for the Jagiellonian University (established in 1364), whose grounds and parks surround parts of the city. The students and faculty here contribute to Cracow's reputation as the primary intellectual city of Poland.

Annual events in Cracow include a Beethoven Musical Festival, Music in Old Cracow, and a Festival of Street Theater. The Students Song Festival is held here yearly, as are traditional university activities held in May, with exhibits, parades and pageants. The oldest jazz festival in Poland, Craconian Jazz on All Souls' Day, was held for the 50th time on November 1, 2005.

Club and other popular music (hip hop, techno, rock, jazz) can be heard in music clubs such as Kameleon, Gen, Carpe Diem, Roentgen and Indigo. Famous local pubs include the Fischer, Propaganda and the Shakesbeer. For coffee houses, check out Paparazzi or Coffeeheaven.

Just outside Cracow is the largest Nazi concentration camp in Poland, the Oswiecim-Brzezinka/Auschwitz-Birkenau complex, where more than 1.5 million people, mostly Jews from Poland and Central Europe, Poles and other nationalities died. This sober memorial is also on UNESCO's World Heritage List.

Gdansk
Known during its German occupation as Danzig, this famous port on the Baltic was the birthplace of the new Poland with the rise and ultimate success of the Solidarity movement here in the late 20th century. At the mouth of the Vistula River, which flows through Warsaw, Gdansk was a wealthy city and as old as Poland itself. An important Hanseatic port and a Free City, Gdansk became the scene of the first battle of World War II.

You can cruise along the Baltic coast in rented pleasure boats or visit the Old Town (also known as the Main Town), with its Long Street and Long Market. Be sure to visit the Golden Gate and Green Gate, as well as the Town Hall and the Artus Court, as well as nearby Golden House. Other top spots include St. Mary's Street (with amber jewelers) and the Oliwa Cathedral. A highlight of the year here is the annual autumn Film Festival.

Nighttime music can be heard at the Daily Blues, the Jazz Club, Sfinks or Mechanik, with blues, hip hop, soul, metal R&B, and techno/club music, respectively. A good choice of pubs would include the Contrast Café or the Tiger.

Zakopane
Poland's winter capital, Zakopane is located in the foothills of the Tatra Mountains, with a well developed hospitality infrastructure, including several outstanding hotels and resorts. In addition to cable cars and a funicular, there are many ski lifts and the country's biggest ski jumps. The town is popular not only with visitors who trek and ski, but with artists, many of whom live here year round. A local statue commemorates a former robber and poacher, later a fiddler, story teller and mountain guide, named Sabala.

For a local pub, check out the Kamikaze or the Paprazzi. Music at night available at Passport or the Piano Café. Annual events include the International Festival of Highlanders' Folklore in August.

Polish Tourist Organization Branches

For more information on Poland, be sure to consult the Polska Organizacja Turstyczna (Polish Tourist Organization) at its USA branch in New Jersey. Phone 201/420-9910, fax 201/584-9153, email pntonyc@polandtour.org, website www.polandtour.org.